Paphos

Paphos city is divided into upper and lower parts. Ano Paphos sits in the hills and is the main administrative centre, Kato Paphos is the port area with big tourist hotels, cafes and tavernas. Though much of the area around Paphos has been engulfed by commercial interests, there are still some attractive places to visit.

The port area has grown considerably since the airport was built nearby. Tourist hotels have mushroomed along the coast and the centre heaves with tourists from May to October. Palm trees line a long promenade and there are some tastefully restored buildings around the harbour. But cafes, bars, tavernas and boutiques have multiplied to feed the booming tourist trade. To be blunt, Paphos is about as Cypriot as Clacton. It's a resort for the British chasing that foreign tan in a home-from-home setting. Restaurants run the gamut, from mock-British pubs to mock-Continental bars, from Mexican and Indian to pie and chips. And the chips, like the tinned veg, are ubiquitous. Oh, and it has a McDonald's, a KFC and a Pizza Hut.

The upper part of Paphos is little more than a suburban sprawl of concrete with narrow main streets a virtual log jam of cars. It is the city's administrative centre with town hall, library and museums. For the visitor the main attraction is the shops which sell designer wear clothes, shoes and jewellery. It also has an interesting market with herb and lace shops as well as the usual tourist tat.

The waters around Paphos are as clean and inviting as anywhere on the island. Compared to the relatively dreary beaches of Limasol and Larnaka they are superb, though they can get choppy at times. Just about all the local beaches have blue flag status which means they are both clean and safe. Beaches to the south of Paphos tend to be less inviting but they are handy for those staying at the string of hotels that stretch along the shoreline. The shore is generally free of the big breakers you get on the north coast and, being close to the hotels there are plenty of tourist facilities such as sun beds and sea sports.

The ancient city of Nea Paphos, founded in the 4th century BC, sat on the bluff to the west of modern Paphos City overlooking the sea. Various archaeological sites are dotted around the cliffs and the around modern city itself. All are well signposted and well marked. Nea Paphos was a strategic outpost for seven centuries until it was ravaged by earthquakes and its significance declined. The main archaeological sites are the Paphos Mosaics and Tombs of the Kings (both described below). But also of note are the Agora, Asklipieon and Odeion near the lighthouse on the headland. The semi-circular Odeion theater was restored in 1970. Also near the mosaics' site are the remains of the medieval Saranta Kolones Fortress, now reduced to a few unimpressive archways. There is a fairly boring tomb complex at the Christian Catacombs where the ghostly frescoes are just visible and some underground burial chambers at Agios Lambrianos, notable for their size more than anything else. A fairly extensive site is still being excavated at the 4th century Hyropolitissa Basilica where St Paul's Pillar can be found, so-called as he is reputed to have been tied to it before being whip lashed by the local Roman governor for his religious teaching.

One of the most popular attractions is the impressive collection of well preserved and colourful mosaics found in Kato Pafos. They were unearthed in 1962 completely by accident as the site was being leveled. Extensive mosaics - mostly Roman - decorated the homes of wealthy inhabitants, particularly in the House of Dionysus (named after the god not the occupant). There are 34 rooms with a striking variety of mosaics.

Unfortunately they don't look so good in the dry, dusty atmosphere so the colours in the guides are brighter than you are likely to see. But a set of wooden gantries over the mosaics allows good overhead views. There are more mosaics in the rebuilt villa of Theseus and in the House of Aion. If you want to view all the mosaics properly allow yourself at least two hours.

Only they weren't kings, just local notables - but it doesn't stop making this one of the most popular attractions in Pafos. The sprawling World Heritage Site is on a rocky ledge overlooking the sea on the edge of town.

The impressive underground tombs were used from 300BC to 300AD and, though scattered over a wide area, they are all are accessible to the public. The most impressive is No 3, recently restored, with an underground atrium enclosed by Doric columns. Niches in the walls are where the bodies were placed.

Most of the treasures have been snaffled by grave robbers - and the 19th century American consul of Larnaka who looted the best of them. It's a good idea to get there early to avoid the heat and the crowds and to allow at least two hours for a good look round.

There's the wide range of hotels and apartments though most are designed for the package tour market and the independent traveller may find difficulty especially in the high season - especially in Kato Pafos where luxury hotels predominate. Rooms are much more likely to be available in Ano Pafos. The only decent camping ground is at Coral Bay, about 11km north of Pafos.

There are a huge number of restaurants in Kato Pafos especially around the harbour where they are packed tightly together with tables spilling out onto the promenade. But you will pay top prices there for indifferent food. Better and cheaper food will be found down the side streets away from the main tourist strip. Restaurants are much thinner on the ground in Ano Pafos.

Most bars and clubs are clustered along Agiou Antoniou, known locally as Bar Street. Most are noisy and raucous, catering for the younger tourist crowd. There are the usual British style pubs and eight clubs, some specialising in UK music while others opt for a more pan European taste.

The main bus station is in Ano Pafos with daily buses to Kato Pafos (every 15 minutes or so), to Coral Bay (every 20 minutes ). There are no regular bus services to the airport and a taxi will cost C£5 - C£7. Other daily buses go to Polis and Polos village nearby. There are three services a day to Limasol and Nicosia from the bus station and, if you advance book, they will pick you up from your hotel.

The main mode of transport is taxis and they line up along the front in Kato Pafos os near the bus station in Ano Pafos. Service taxis a re cheaper than normal taxis for longer journeys and they will pick you up from the hotel. It costs about C£3 to Limasol and C£7 to Nicosia.

There are plenty of banks and ATMs in both Ano Pafos and Kato Pafos. Exchange services are also dotted about everywhere and many people will accept English money if a small tip is thrown in.

Tourist development having come relatively late to the region and its tentacles have not spread too far from Pafos City. Pretty inland villages litter the valleys and the small beach resorts have a more tranquil air. Banana plantations are common and there are plenty of vineyards on the south facing hillsides. The wild Akamas peninsular is a sparsely populated wilderness and the Troodos foothills are within striking distance. Working your way west from Pafos the main points of interest are:

Popular Coral Bay is 4km north of Paphos and well marked off the coast road. If you don't mind regimented ranks of sun beds and heaving crowds it's a splendid beach of good sand sitting beneath a small cliff bluff. Large car parks on both sides of the road above testify to its popularity and the crowds can be fearsome in high summer. Seas are shallow and sandy so it's fine for children and this is a popular family beach. There is no shortage of watersports and other entertainment.

About 1km before you get to Coral Bay there is a road sign pointing to the Adonis Falls where there is a 10ft waterfall that cascades into a small pool.

Further north from Coral Bay is the small beach at Agios Georgios in a beautiful setting below steep cliffs. The small sandy beach is sheltered from the sea by a large enclosed harbour. It looks good for swimming but a sign warns of stiff fines for anyone taking a dip. To the south of the harbour is an expanse of flat rock and to the north, for those seeking solitude, there are cliffs and coves to explore. The rocky islet of Geronisos adds offshore interest and a taverna overlooks the whole lot on the cliffs above next to the splendid Agios Georgios chapel.

North of Agios Georgios the road turns into a dirt track and Lara Bay signals the entrance to the wild region on the Akamas peninsular. The beach of sand and shingle is long and narrow with wide flatlands behind. This is a turtle nesting site and visitors are asked to take extra care on the beach. There are few facilities here and no sun beds but there is a large taverna at the southern end of the bay that puts out brollies in a small cove over the headland.

Main access by terrain vehicles on tracks from Agios Georgios and Lara Bay in the south, Polis and Baths of Aphrodite in the north.

The horn-shaped piece of land north of Lara Bay is one of Cyprus's last remaining wilderness areas. This is largely thanks, if that's quite the right word, to British commandos who used it for many years as a firing range. Its relative remoteness and the lack of roads have also kept the crowds away. It is now a favourite target for hikers and there are four major hiking trails that run through the northern part of the region. It is also a major attraction for botanists with more than 600 plant species, 35 of them found only here.

On the north coast of the peninsular are the island's much advertised Baths of Aphrodite, which sound rather grand but turns out to be less appealing on close inspection. This is reputed to be the spot where the famous beauty arose naked from the sea (á la Botticelli) to found an island cult that is still in existence today. The baths turns out be a rock pool fed by a small waterfall and not much else. Even more disappointing on a hot day is to find that public bathing is forbidden. A well-marked trail leads to it from the large car and coach park on the main road.

To the east of the Baths of Aphrodite, and along a new road, is the beach resort of Latsi or Lakki. It is not much more than a string of shops and tavernas at the roadside road with two long beaches stretching out either side of a small harbour. It's a pleasant enough with deep, flat sand on the western side and there are plenty of facilities. A large car park indicates the resort's popularity with day trippers, many of them off to see the much touted but disappointing Baths of Aphrodite.

The main resort on the north coast has been spared the rampant tourist development of the south and caters more for the independent traveller. It has a pleasant, genteel, laid back air. The compact village is 2km from the coast and has a traffic-free centre full of very fine tavernas and cafes.

The long, sandy beach at Polis is backed by pines and there is a large beach cantina, showers, toilets and a few sun beds. There are more beaches to the east but they tend to be scruffy and isolated. At the strung-out village of Pomos there are a couple of restaurants behind a sheltered pebble beach. At Kallinoussa, just over the headland, there is better swimming and some beach umbrellas.

Two roads (B7 and E709) run from Pafos City on the south coast over the hills to Polis on the north. Both routes skirt the Akamas peninsular and pass through or around a series of attractive hill villages, known for their cooler climates and wine growing. Kathikas on the E709 north of Coral Bay is known for its fine vineyards and good restaurants. Further north, just off the B7 are Pano Akourdalia and Kato Akourdalia, both picturesque villages with accommodation and restaurants. Staying north on the E709 brings you to the popular villages of Inia and Dhrousia with wonderful views and small tavernas.